Chanel No5 turns 100 and is immortalized in sparkling diamond jewelry
In 1921, Gabrielle Chanel created what she had wanted for a long time: “a woman’s perfume with a woman’s perfume”. Legend has it that out of the 10 samples submitted by Ernest Beaux, a former nose of the Russian tsars, Chanel chose the fifth as her favorite and, avoiding a flowery name for her new perfume, kept her label due to her belief in the talisman of number. powers. Chanel No 5 has become the most famous perfume in the world and this year marks its 100th anniversary.
“I show my collections on May 5, the fifth month of the year … the number five will bring her luck,” said the seamstress. In the century since its debut, No 5 has not only become a worldwide bestseller – with one bottle sold every 30 seconds – but also transcends the world of perfume as an icon of popular culture, cinema. and from design to visual arts. The Museum of Modern Art in New York admitted its elegant packaging to its permanent collection in 1959 and 26 years later Andy Warhol immortalized the minimalist glass bottle, designed by Gabrielle Chanel herself, in his colorful serigraphs. Visionary image makers from fashion photographers to film directors including Richard Avedon, Ridley Scott and Baz Luhrmann have created number 5 ad campaigns featuring Hollywood legends such as Lauren Hutton, Catherine Deneuve, Nicole Kidman, Marion Cotillard and Marilyn Monroe (who wore “five drops” in bed – and nothing else).
At the heart of all this glamor is, of course, the scent itself – a rich blend of flowers, notably jasmine and May rose, grown in Chanel’s own fields in Grasse. No wonder the house’s jewelery designer, Patrice Leguéreau, went there to design a new collection that pays tribute to the centenary of perfume by reinterpreting its key elements in diamonds.
“I wanted to explore the whole world of No 5 and these flowers are in his heart, so I was delighted to watch their harvest,” he says. “I found that even their geometric shapes – the moon-like rose, star jasmine, and ylang-ylang sunray – echoed the celestial themes of Chanel’s very first precious jewelry designs, so I used them as a way to connect with an important part of our heritage. “
Indeed, a set of jasmine-shaped brooches and a long necklace of pearls with a pink sapphire pendant would look great on Gabrielle Chanel’s art deco dressing table. Other pieces are more direct representations: a “spritz” of perfume has transformed into a cascade of yellow stones for a pair of earrings, and the stopper of the bottle, cut in rock crystal, forms a necklace. graphic.
But the sparkling star of the show is undoubtedly the 55.55 necklace: a flawless 55.55-carat diamond, the largest in the history of Chanel High Jewelry, in a white gold setting modeled on the iconic bottle, to which five droplets of perfume are suspended. , in the form of pear-shaped brilliants. “No elegance is possible without perfume. It is the ultimate invisible, unforgettable accessory,” said Chanel herself. These dazzling jewels are the perfect testimony to this.
The Chanel Haute Joaillerie N ° 5 Collection (www.chanel.com) is now available
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