How to find the perfect costume for your morphology!
Whether it’s a tight jacket or pants that are too short, it can be difficult for men to find a suit that suits them.
But there are simple tricks any man can use to look his best in a suit, no matter what body type.
Tailors Reto Peter and Patrick Jungo, founders of London-based bespoke tailors Edit Suit Co., spoke to FEMAIL about the rules he needs to follow if he wants to look red carpet ready (or just prepared for the desk) depending on whether he’s thin, short, tall, muscular, or maybe carrying a little extra weight.
There are different fabrics, fits, and styles that work for different body types — and simple styling tricks like adding buttons or removing a belt can help pull an outfit together. Here, Mr Peter and Mr Jungo share their advice…
Celebrity Poster Boy: Harry Styles, Bruno Mars
The best style tips: Lighter colors and no skinny fit
Make a statement: thin men like Harry Styles can use bold prints to add extra weight
Add Volume: Thin Men Timothee Chalamet and Bruno Mars Use Color to Their Advantage
Expert advice: Tailors Reto Peter and Patrick Jungo, founders of London bespoke tailors Edit Suit Co., shared their tips for dressing different body types
So you are lucky to have a thinner frame. But although it is the most envied body shape, not everything is simple.
A design that’s too skinny makes you look like a nervous A-level student, while taller styles can make it look like you’ve borrowed someone else’s wardrobe.
The right fit is crucial. For example, we advise men to opt for a comfortable fit and have thinner cuffs to keep things in proportion; they can then accessorize with a thinner tie.
Plus, if you’re adventurous, you can experiment with lighter colors and bolder prints that will make your body look slightly bulkier than it actually is.
Celebrity Poster Boy: James Haskell, Chris Hemsworth, Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson
The best style tips: Wide lapels and stretch fabric
Keeping things in proportion: Dwayne Johnson shows how wide lapels balance a wide frame
Break the chest: James Haskell and Chris Hemsworth trick the eye with a white shirt
While you can get the pulse racing in your gym gear, muscular men often don’t look out of place in a suit, especially if they’re buying off the shelf.
The problem is high street is trying to find a style that suits your body shape – more often than not a jacket that fits over the shoulders will be loose at the waist and forget about trying to contain those oversized buttocks. – the ankle pants.
To keep things comfortable without having to add extra room, opt for a stretchy fabric and avoid anything with thick shoulder pads.
Wider lapels can trick the eye and keep things in proportion.
For more muscular seats, dual-vented jackets will sit better than their dual-vented counterparts which tend to open up, and tailored pants are more likely to accommodate oversized glutes without needing to opt for a oversized leg.
MORE COMPLETE FIGURE
Celebrity Poster Boy: James Corden or Jack Black
The best style tips: Slanted pockets and single-breasted jacket
Sharp look: Single-breasted jacket flatters James Corden’s figure on the red carpet
Dress for their shape: Slanted pockets as seen on Eamonn Holmes’ jacket (left) and Jack Black steps out in a suit in a heavier fabric
We find that one of the biggest mistakes that heavier men make is buying a ready-made jacket that fits snugly around the waist, but then looks huge on the shoulders and open-mouthed on the chest.
Choosing a tailored style that hugs the shoulders and upper chest, while fitting your waistline means you’ll look sharper and feel more comfortable too.
A fitted single-breasted jacket is more flattering than a double-breasted jacket, as double-breasted jackets tend to pull on buttons and accentuate a larger belly.
We recommend plumping for heavier, stretchier fabrics, as the fabric will sink more flatteringly.
When it comes to design, you can use a few clever tricks: slanted pockets can make the frame appear slimmer and draw the eyes upward; avoid loud and bold checks; and the slim fit is your best friend – the oversized waistline will only make you look taller.
Celebrity Poster Boy: Etienne Marchand
The best style tips: No pinstripes and wear a belt
Go tailored: 6ft 6in Stephen Merchant shows how to dress for his size
Parting line: 6ft 6in Brad Garrett (left) and 6ft 4in Tyler Perry wear pants and jackets in different colors and fabrics to break the line of their statuesque physiques
Many of our customers come to us because they have trouble finding suits or separates that fit them, saying the vast majority of high street choices are either too short in the arm or too short in the of the leg.
Custom made means you’ll always have something on hand that not only fits properly, but also gives you more confidence.
If you already feel like you’re towering over your friends, you don’t want to make it worse by wearing clothes that accentuate your height.
So rule number one: no fine scratches. All those vertical stripes and you’ll not only look taller but also slimmer.
Also, trick the eye by wearing a belt – it will help divide the body into sections rather than a long silhouette.
Celebrity Poster Boy: Declan Donnelly
The best style tips: Thinner lapels and a shorter jacket
Thin is in: Ant and Dec both use thinner setbacks to flatter the shape of their shorter frames
Tip: Tan France wears a shorter jacket while James McAvoy has thinner lapels
If you’re on the short side, it can be difficult to find a well-fitting suit on the high street.
You know the score…overly long sleeves, baggy pants and oversized shoulders make you look more like a schoolboy in his dad’s Sunday suit than a serious business competitor.
With a shorter client, we would consider making the jacket length shorter and placing buttons a little lower than usual to elongate the torso, while slimmer pants will make the legs look longer.
Clever design tricks we can use to make sure you stand up straight include: using thinner lapels to keep things in proportion and avoiding waistbands to make the body appear taller.
BIG THIGHS AND SITTING
Celebrity Poster Boy: David Walliams
The best style tips: Double slits and tapered pants
A little more room: men with bigger thighs and a bigger seat like David Walliams should choose tapered pants
When you have bigger thighs and a larger seat, you will normally opt for pants that you can pull over your thighs. But, when you go up a size, you compromise on the fit from the knee down where you tend to have excess fabric.
When choosing a jacket, you will normally encounter two problems.
Either you choose a jacket that doesn’t fit your larger seat and it will cause the jacket’s ventilation to flare out, or if you choose a larger fit it may feel oversized on your shoulders and chest.
What we recommend is going for a jacket with dual venting as this will allow more movement around your hip area as it will split more easily than single venting.
Choose pants that fit around the thighs, but taper the bottoms for a snug fit without excess fabric around the ankles.
Opting for a fabric that has a natural stretch like Dormeuil Exel, will allow extra movement around the thighs so you can be comfortable while looking good.